Here’s another thought on Calming Signals. Turid Rugaas’s book talks a bit about using well-adjusted dogs to help teach other dogs how to communicate again, how to be comfortable around others, etc. So, it got me thinking … I wish there were more dogs-for-hire out there to help socialize or re-socialize dogs like Lilly.
Maybe that’s the role Lilly’s friend Katie plays. Katie naturally seems to do all the right things to help Lilly feel happy around her. As a reminder, Katie is the only dog (other than Ginko) that Lilly will play in front of. And, by that I mean, she’ll actually play fetch with me while Katie is visiting. She still won’t do any agility in front of her, but she will play, which I take as a good sign.
It’d be an interesting specialty training or behavior modification service to have a dog skilled at such calming signals.
The skeptic in me says, however, that all the skills in the world won’t help with some of the dogs we run into near home or in public. The book tells stories of a skilled dog merely turning its back on other dogs racing toward it barking, and somehow the other dogs get the message and go away.
I’d like to see something like that first hand because it’s NEVER been my experience.
The other thing that the book does not talk about it is dog-dog corrections — like a lip curl, or a single sharp bark. Those seem like equally important signals between dogs, but I don’t think I’ve heard of a book on that topic (at least in the consumer market) … have you?
Because here’s the thing, considering how far we’ve come, I’ll take a well-placed, silent lip curl over a full-on reactive display. At times, it seems like a perfectly normal, perfectly acceptable form of dog-dog communication.
I can see K doing that. She’s so sweet, but I agree. It’s probably because the dogs are smaller.
Katie does that all the time for Lilly. I even have a video of it. Watch the third video in this post. I guess I just need to ask for more play dates. Katie’s mom said I could come over any time (even when they are gone) so that Lilly and Katie can play in her backyard, but I haven’t taken her up on it yet.
That’s a great story, Lisa. I’d love to have a dog like that some day.
P.S. I hope you’re staying warm!
That is so scary. I’m glad it worked out OK.
Back when I volunteered at the county animal shelter, I got pinned in a cage by a big male rottie. He was just being pushy, not mean. But, still. He hopped up and put his paws on my shoulders and would not let me leave. It all worked out, but it was still a little scary. I just stayed calm and waited him out. I think he was just so desperate for attention that he didn’t want me to leave.
Thanks, Dog-Geek. I’m shocked to say my local library district has 3 copies of the book, so I’ve requested one be delivered to the branch I visit. I’ll report back once I’ve read it.
I agree with Dog Geek about Brenda Aloff’s book. I learned a huge amount about dog-dog interactions in it even though the photos aren’t great.
I think that a ‘rehab’ dog needs to be totally secure to be able to make a nervous dog comfortable enough to play. I’ve read about ‘self-handicapping’ which refers to a dog putting him/herself into a vulnerable position so that another dog feels comfortable playing.
Then, I actually saw my dog, K, do this with some little dogs (10 lbs each) that we meet on the trail sometimes. For those dogs, K lies on her back – belly-up – and plays with them from that position. It’s cute to see, and very surprising given what a nervous dog K can be. I’ve never seen her do this with a dog her own size. Perhaps she’s not secure enough.
The owner of the little dogs says that K is the only dog that they’ll play with whose from outside their pack.
So, Lilly’s rehab dog needs to be a very secure dog. Does Katie fit that description?
Totally agree, it’s amazing what a dog with great communication skills can do for one who’s lacking. Some dogs are such complete naturals at it. Once my socially awkward dog was playing with a toy and growled with uncertainty at an approaching dog. The other dog immediately sat, looked away, sniffed the ground, and lifted her paw all within 5 seconds. Now there’s a dog who will never have trouble finding friends.
Brenda Aloff’s book on Canine Body Language covers a lot of dog-dog corrections. The pictures aren’t all the best quality, but it is a very good book.
The dog was after me, not my dogs who thankfully weren’t with me. The dog never actually went away. It had me up against my fence in a stand-off right by my front gate. He was snarling with all his teeth bared, foaming at the mouth and was inches from my thigh. I looked away and to the side and he stopped snarling then I looked back at him and he started snarling again so I looked away again and he stopped and I put a dish towel I was holding in front of his face so he couldn’t see me then backed up through my fence gate to safety.
I kept one of those metal garden rake/hoe things with pointy spikes in my front yard for months after that because the people were idiots and the dog was constantly getting loose. Finally it got loose and never came back.
One of Strummy’s best ‘teachers’ is a Norwegian Elkhound so I don’t think breed matters, it’s more important that the dog has good body language and behaves appropriately.
It makes me wonder how many truly well-adjusted dogs there are out there. Honestly, though, if there are experienced people who KNOW for a FACT that their dog could help rehabilitate dogs like Lilly, they should seriously hire themselves out.
I wonder of it matters if the dogs are of the same breed or not since clearly border collies (or really any herding dogs) have their own way of communicating.
I’m glad turning your head worked with the scary dog. I’ve honestly never been able to get an approaching dog just go away. They hone in on Lilly like she has laser targeting.
I took Strum to a behaviorist years ago in hopes that she would have some dogs that would help teach him appropriate doggie language. Unfortantely all that happened was that she told me what I already knew, ie that he had no major aggression problems, he was just socially awkward and had a hard time understanding doggie body language. Um, yes, thank you, I already know that, that’s why I’m here. Anyway, someone at the agility field offered up her dog for such purposes and also had me come out while a bunch of dogs were practicing and they all stopped for a big group socialization session. She also had me come out for an off leash walk on the open space with her dogs and a friend’s dogs. The effect on Strummer was remarkable, especially after the off-leash walk. He relaxed and seemed so comfortable around the other dogs, a completely different dog at the end of the walk. Some behaviorists do do this type of work but I’ve yet to find one locally. Thankfully I have friends with good dogs that are willing to help me.
It’s important though that the dogs have good communication skills and no issues of their own. If a dog is coming down the trail lunging and snarling at us I’ll do what I can to avoid them. If I have to I’ll ask the owner to ‘Please keep your dog away’. I don’t think my dogs should have to put up with rude or aggressive dogs right in their face.
I usually let my dogs ‘talk’ to approaching dogs while they’re farther away. If they then turn to me I’ll give them a treat, if they continue to stare or posture as the other dog gets closer then I’ll interfere. Most people don’t have the slightest clue that their dog is talking smack and I try to avoid these people and dogs if at all possible. It’s a fine line though because I don’t want my dogs talking smack either. They can briefly state their case so the other dog knows where they stand but I don’t want them escalating the situation with staring or posturing.
My next door neighbor’s highly aggressive Chow mix got loose and nearly took a chunk out of my leg and I averted the attack and was able to escape by turning by head to the side and looking away. It was really quite remarkable (and lucky). If I hadn’t done that and continued to stare straight at him I have no doubt he would have bitten me.